2012年9月18日 星期二

淺烘焙profile的密技


Reflections on Roasting Fundamentals - RULING THE ROAST




The fundamental objective of roasting should be to reveal the best possible flavor profile of the bean while developing a balance between roast flavor and bean characteristics.
烘焙的基本目的是要在開發烘焙風味與豆子特性之間求取平衡,發揚豆子最好的風味,

The roast flavor develops as a result of the caramelization of sugars, while the bean flavor represents the terroir of the coffee.
烘焙風味的發展示因為糖的焦糖化反應;而豆子的風味則是代表地理特性。
(Terroir, a French term, literally means “soil” and as a concept, it is mainly used in the wine industry, but can also reflect all the relevant parameters that determine coffee quality: coffee variety, microclimates, processing practices and soil conditions.)
Some roasting companies apply fundamental beliefs to their 
roasting practice and insist on roasting light enough to reveal the 
characteristics of the beans only, without developing any of the 
bittersweet flavors that generally go hand in hand with darker 
roasting styles.
某些烘焙商堅信他們的烘焙經驗,堅持只有淺度的烘焙可以發掘豆子的特性,而不會如同一般深度烘焙一樣開發出苦甜的風味。

Graph B shows a roasting curve for Kenya AA coffee, roasted 
to a lighter degree of Agtron 56. 
圖B顯示Kenya AA 淺烘焙的曲線
Many coffee professionals believe that it is impossible to create a palatable product with this light roast degree, and I firmly disagree! 
許多專家認為:如此淺度的烘焙無法產生可口的咖啡產品,我絕對不同意此種觀點。
The trick is in the speed of the process; 秘訣在於烘焙的速率
if roasting is done slowly enough, allowing enough time between the first crack and the end of the roast, then I guarantee you that there is true balance between roast flavor and bean characteristics. 
如果烘焙速率夠慢,在第一爆到下豆之間(未達第二爆)給予足夠的時間。那麼我保證可以得到"烘焙風味"與"豆子特性"間的真正平衡。
The objective in this case is to effectively slow down the roasting process right at the start of the first crack, which is shown in the lower section of Graph B. 
這種情形下的真正目標是要有效的"放慢第一爆發生後的烘烤過程"
The operator anticipates the first crack by reducing the energy supply of the burners at least 15 seconds before the first crack starts. 要於第一爆發生的至少15秒前減少能量的供給
As a result, there are at least three minutes between the start of  the first crack and the end of the roast, which comes at an Agtron bean color  of 56 (M-basic standard). 在第一爆到下豆之間(未達第二爆)維持至少3分鐘的時間

One word of caution: always prevent the coffee from baking, which would occur if the bean temperature stalls or decreases. 注意:不要讓豆子"烘焙",一般發生在停頓回降時。
Provided that you selected an exemplary Kenya bean, the resulting flavor 
is very balanced and rich in citrus fruit flavors with a refreshing aftertaste, 
resembling a well-ripened sweet tangerine.

如何讓1C之後的烘烤不會STALLING
Dimal 
In my opinion, this is really worth the effort as it forces you to learn more about the roasting process and appreciate the specific needs of each bean type and so adapt the profile to suit each type. 
For the most part, my roasting profiles all appear to be very similar at first glance but what is different, is the amount of heat being applied to achieve the desired profile for each bean which may result in slightly shorter or longer ramps up to FC but less variation of the profile after RFC. I dont have any profiles that are less than 4:30 minutes after RFC and none that are longer 6:00 minutes, whether or not SC is being reached.
我的烘豆曲線大同小異,但是仍有些許差異。我會變動熱量供應已改變到達第一爆的時間;至於第一爆以後,不管是否到達第二爆,我大概會維持多於4'30"而又少於 6'00"
Dimal 
 As far as the profile to FC is concerned, my experience has been that this stage of the roast, more than any other, can determine the predominance of brighter flavours that are perceived in the cup. 第一爆後的期間對杯中咖啡的風味有決定性的影響
Mostly, I keep the ramp from the end of FC towards SC at around the same gradient, regardless.
大部分情形是,
 By varying the time and gradient curve towards FC though, you can influence a lot of factors that seem to change the high notes of a beans final flavour profile in the cup.

Dimal 
From the few (meagre) experiments Ive done, pushing the beans too hard early on can sometimes accentuate off flavours at the expense of good ones;依我的一些少少的經驗,豆子一開始加熱太快的話,
l   常會去除一些好的風味。
l   豆色(外觀)烘的不均勻,豆子內外熟度不均勻。
 result in unevenly roasted batches (by external colour) and unevenly roasted beans through the cross-section of individual beans in the batch... Its probably these that cause some of the off flavours Im referring to. Perhaps some of the techno-babble in Jim Schulmans treatise quoted by you, goes some way to explaining these processes scientifically. When its all said and done, I just test my efforts by the quality in the cup and if somethings not quite right, not as good as earlier crops of the bean for example, I head back to the drawing table and modify the gradient slightly, one way or the other, until Im getting the best out of the bean that I can.

That part of the roasting curve after FC, I keep more or less constant at a straight line gradient of between 3-4 C/Minute and stop the roast at some point along this line and usually before Second Crack(SC) starts for most bean varieties.
一爆後的曲線,我保持一條直線似的斜率3-4 /Min,並且保持這個斜率直到近二爆 才結束煎焙。
 It is really important to control the roast during FC so that it doesnt either run away or start to stall; 第一爆期間的溫度非常重要,不要讓她失控也不要讓他停頓you need to hold a very shallow gradient here until FC starts to taper off and then increase to one something like the gradient above, towards SC. FC這段期間你需要一個很淺的斜度直到第一爆活動開始變弱,然後開始反轉向上到第二爆Ive gotten so used to roasting this way now that it has almost become automatic for me but always enjoyable. 










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